Grenada

Rocky Start to Cruising Again

After splashing back in the water in Trinidad we had a couple of nasty surprises. While out on land for almost three months, our starter battery had died.

We blame our friend Tommy for this. The night before he was laughing and making fun of the jackasses who get launched and their engines won't start. You see them doing the walk of shame to Budget Marine for a new battery and lugging it back to their boat (batteries are heavy!). We thought he was hysterical, but the joke was on us the next day when we turned into those very same jackasses!

Honestly, the battery had been acting like a drama queen even before. Naturally, we chose the "ignore it and hope it fixes itself" strategy while on dry land. We did give it a full night's charge session before the big splash, but it was deader than dead when we tried to fire up the engine the next morning.

We had to get pulled over to the emergency slip while we worked out our plan. Fortunately for us, our friends Lance and Shawna had come to see us off and they had also rented a car for a doctor's appt. They quickly shuttled us to Budget Marine so we could purchase a new battery (no walk of shame for us!). Dave worked quickly to yank out the old and put in the new.

The engine started beautifully but now water wasn't squirting over the side as it should so we shut it down and checked the impeller. It was all chewed up. Another item we should have inspected BEFORE launching but chose to forget about. Diligent sailors? More like the absent-minded crew!

Our plan was to set off around 4 pm and sail overnight to Grenada. We launched at 11 am. I pictured us having all this leisure time on anchor to stow items and relax. However, after sorting out the engine troubles, dinghying over to customs and immigration to check out, and hoisting the dinghy back on the boat, it was time to get going.

Close Hauled Sail

The passage, roughly 85 nautical miles across the Windward Islands' southern reaches, began with leaving the Gulf of Paria behind, Through the cut and out into the Caribbean Sea the waves are confused and built up quite a bit. It was a hobby horse of a ride for the first couple of hours.

The wind, blowing predominantly from the east-northeast, forced us to sail as close to the wind as we could. The boat heeled hard and stayed in this position the entire way. We got used to walking on a 45 degree slant.

The Caribbean Sea offered us a mix of conditions, from steady swells (that dumped water over us in the cockpit) to occasional gusts. We were flying along averaging about 7 knots, which for us, is FAST.

We took turns on watch but Dave stayed up most of the night. We both were really enjoying being back at sea.

As the sun came up, Grenada’s southern coast emerged on the horizon. The lush, rolling hills came into view, their green slopes dotted with colorful houses and swaying palms. The fragrance of salt air mingled with a hint of nutmeg and spice.

We had sailed the entire way.

Prickly Bay

View from our boat in Prickly Bay,

We arrived in Prickly Bay, Grenada at 7 am.

The bays calm turquoise waters shimmered under the tropical sun. It was such a refreshing sight after looking at Trinidad's dark waters for so long. Sailboats of all shapes and sizes bobbed gently in the anchorage, their masts forming a rhythmic skyline against the backdrop of cliffs.

We found it much less crowded than when we were here for 3 weeks in June. It as also much less rolly, which was a lovely surprise!

We dinghied ashore on Christmas Eve Day to check into the country. We had accomplished our goal of being out of Trinidad by Christmas!

This was actually in Trinidad before we left. The marina hosted an early Christmas Party.

Cruiser's Paradise

After watching years of sailing youtube videos, we were well aware of Grenada's reputation as a cruiser's hangout and we learned why upon our visits. Grenada boasts a variety of sheltered anchorages and marinas that cater to cruisers. Pristine spots like Prickly Bay, Mount Hartman Bay, and St. George's Harbor provide safe mooring options with breathtaking views.

You can walk from Prickly Bay to Hog Island!

Weekly events, walking sessions, beach barbecues, and trivia nights bring sailors together, fostering a sense of camaraderie.

Popular gathering spots like the Port Louis Marina or the famous Hog Island are hubs of activity where stories and tips are shared. The Grenada Cruisers Net, a morning radio broadcast, keeps everyone informed about weather, activities, and local updates.

Exploring St. George's

St, George's from atop Fort George

St. George’s, Grenada’s capital, is nestled between a horseshoe-shaped harbor and rolling green hills. The Carenage is St. George’s bustling waterfront area. Here, colorful fishing boats and yachts dot the harbor, and the charming colonial architecture adds a touch of old-world charm. We strolled along the water’s edge, explore quaint shops while soaking in the lively atmosphere.

St. George’s is home to two iconic forts that offer specta cular views and a glimpse into Grenada’s past. Fort George, located at the southern end of the Carenage, was built in the early 18th century and provides panoramic views of the town and harbor. Fort Frederick, perched atop Richmond Hill, offers equally stunning vistas.

We had an interesting visit to the St. George’s Market Square. Vendors sell locally grown spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, and cloves, along with fresh produce, handmade crafts, and food. The market is a great place to interact with locals and experience Grenada’s rich culture and flavors. We had a delicious lunch here and stocked up on fruit and veg.

Located in a historic French barracks building, the Grenada National Museum is a treasure trove of artifacts and exhibits.

FUNtastic Adventure River Tubing

Andy and Dave getting ready to ride the rapids.

While in Grenada in June, with my son Andy, we signed up for FUNtastic Adventure River Tubing down the Balthazar River.

The trip started with an hour drive out of the town of St. George's through the scenic hilly interior of the Grand Etang Rainforest Reserve. I'm glad Dave did all the driving because the roads here are steep and windy. The river is nestled in the heart of the rainforest.

We had a little bit of trouble finding the launch site. After driving by it twice, we finally located it.

Behind this unassuming hut is the start of the trip.

The tubes have wooden bottoms covering the hole so you don't hurt your butt on a rock!

We are ready!

We were there in the dry season so the water was a little low but we still had a great time!

The guides were our trusty sidekicks on this epic adventure, and honestly, in the dry spots, we were like oversized toddlers needing a tug over the rocks. It was a comedy show on water! We twirled and whirled through the river's currents and rapids.

We also soaked in the wild scenery of the tropical jungle, feeling like explorers in a nature documentary.

We did a lot of laughing on the way down.

At the end of the journey we were treated to rum punch and anyone who wanted to jump off the cliff could do so. Dave and Andy went for it. I filmed.

Andy in Action

We consider this one of the highlights of Grenada. It was such a fun morning. I recommend it for all visitors of the island.

The river guides are incredibly entrepreneurial, just like many of the island folks we've encountered in the Caribbean. One friendly guide enthusiastically approached us, offering to be our tour guide for the nearby Rum Distillery and Belmont Estate. With his kindness and fantastic personality, we agreed to have him join us and show us around.

Belmont Estate

Belmont Estate, a 300-year-old working estate, is a vibrant showcase of Grenadian traditions, offering a perfect blend of history, culture, and yummy food and chocolate.

The estate welcomed us with its peaceful scenery. If you love nature, this place is a paradise full of diverse life. The vibrant gardens are packed with tropical plants, including spices like nutmeg and cinnamon for which Grenada is famous. This small Caribbean nation is one of the world's largest exporters of nutmeg.

The estate also boast a menagerie of animals. We enjoyed visiting with the goats, tortoises, monkeys, and birds.

A poor little caged Mona Monkey.

The goats demanded a little attention.

The restored 17th-century buildings, including the Great House, are a testament to the estate's historical significance. The estate was established during Grenada's period of French and British colonization. Initially a sugar plantation, enslaved Africans were brought to work the land, cultivating sugarcane and later other crops, under harsh conditions.

After the abolition of slavery in 1834, Belmont Estate transitioned to cultivating cocoa, spices, and other crops. Cocoa became the estate's primary focus, and it played a crucial role in Grenada's rise as a major producer of fine-flavor cocoa.

We immersed ourselves in the fascinating process of chocolate-making from bean to bar.

The cacao is drying out.

In the 20th century, the estate underwent several ownership changes, eventually being acquired by descendants of freed slaves who revitalized its operations. Our tour guide used to live and work on the estate and he introduced us to the Estate Owner.

We left not just with memories of a charming destination but also with a deeper appreciation for Grenada's natural and cultural wealth and with a bag of delicious chocolate!

We tried lots of flavors and it was all delicious!

River Antoine Estate Rum Distillery

Our next stop with our River Tour Guide was the River Antoine Estate Rum Distillery. River Antoine was established in 1785 making it the oldest functioning distillery in Grenada and one of the oldest in the Caribbean. It is renowned for producing rum using traditional methods that have remained virtually unchanged for over two centuries.

A historic water wheel powers the crushing of sugarcane. They use traditional fermentation that takes place in open-air vats. The rum is distilled in copper pots, yielding a high-proof, full-bodied spirit. The distillery uses renewable energy and produces minimal waste.

The rum was so strong, it could probably strip paint off a wall!

Waterfalls, Beach and Scuba Diving

We packed in so much adventure! The Seven Sisters Waterfall hike was absolutely breathtaking, and we spent time relaxing on some incredible beaches. Dave, along with our friends Shawna and Lance, went on some amazing scuba dives. I gave it a shot the day before with a refresher course, but my anxiety got the best of me—I'd much rather stick to snorkeling on the surface, where I'm happiest.

Next, we sailed to Carriacou, one of Grenada’s islands. The community is still recovering from the devastation of Hurricane Beryl last June, and we had the chance to meet some locals and lend a hand in repairing a bar and home. Stay tuned for all the details in our next blog post!