This might not be the dreamy tropical Caribbean island I imagined we'd call home for over a month, but here we are!
In fact, I’m starting to wonder if we’re even in the Caribbean at all. We’re just 6 miles off the coast of Venezuela, and according to the map, that’s looking a lot more like South America than the Caribbean to me!
The Ugly
Sorry, Clint Eastwood, I'm going in reverse order to end on the Good. And no, our friend, Red Howler Monkey in the picture, is not the ugly.
We are anchored in Chagauramas harbor. Looking out our cockpit, we see a backdrop of lush, green hills and stunning views of the Gulf of Paria. The harbor is naturally protected by the Chaguaramas Peninsula, creating a calm and sheltered body of water ideal for sleeping. We haven't been in a calmer, quieter anchorage since Annapolis. The area is surrounded by several smaller islands, including Gasparee Island, Monos Island, and Nelson Island, which are easily accessible from the harbor.
Sounds gorgeous, right? Well, hold your breath before you look down! The water we are anchored in is anything but paradise—it's downright NASTY. This bay has a heavy industrial vibe. Alongside the yachties here to haul out at the bustling marinas, the bay is packed with massive ships supporting Trinidad's oil industry and a fleet of Venezuelan fishing boats.
Some of our Neighbors
Poor Lagerhead is wearing a grimy black ring around her belly, thanks to an oily mess that's also doubling as a barnacle breeding ground. Yesterday, I was scrubbing her from the dinghy, and let me tell you, it’s a workout just trying to peel off that greasy layer.
Forget the turquoise waters of Anguilla or the Virgin Islands—this stuff is more like a black hole. A swim here? Not a chance. I joked to a local about cooling off with a dive, and he shot me a look of pure horror. "No. No, never do that. Never." Don’t worry, I definitely won’t!
The worst part? The current here delivers a non-stop parade of floating trash right past us. Sure, we get the occasional log or wooden plank giving our boat a nudge, but mostly it’s a plastic party out there.
Plastic egg cartons, milk jugs, peanut butter jars—you name it. A clear garbage bag full of dirty diapers? Yep, we’ve got that too. Old Tupperware, and a literal sea of discarded soda and water bottles. At one point, I couldn’t resist telling Dave his lunch had arrived when a plastic take-out container bobbed by!
It is enough to make me never want to purchase anything made out of plastic again, especially not a water bottle.
Unfortunately, all that junk eventually ends up as beach decor around here. And with the rainy season cranking up the humidity, we're left either sweating our butts off or seeking refuge in the nearest air-conditioned oasis!
The Bad
Trinidad has a VERY BAD reputation. If I had visited the State Department's website before arriving here, I'd have been afraid to step foot on this island.
We have had plenty of warnings from locals to be wary of the 2-legged predators. We were warned off from ever being in Port of Spain, the capital city, after dark. I barely want to be in Port of Spain during the day so I am ok with skipping its nightlife!
I read the news every day and most of the crime does seem to be gang related. I haven't heard or read of any violent acts against tourists or cruisers.
The police are quite visible here, often setting up roadblocks and searching cars. Dave and I rented a car and found ourselves stopped at one of these checkpoints. We had our car and bags searched, which was unsettling. It really made us appreciate the legal protections we have back home, like the need for a search warrant.
The Good
That said, we've encountered mostly just kind and lovely people in Trinidad. The locals, or Trinis, are incredibly friendly. While their Trinidadian English—a Creole with lots of slang phrases —might be a bit tricky to understand, they've been nothing but warm and welcoming.
For example, while we were lugging our grocery bags to the bus stop in Port of Spain, a man pulled over and offered us a ride. Yes, kidnapping briefly flashed in my mind but we got in anyway. Ride-sharing is a big thing in Trinidad, and they’re always stopping for people.
He didn't want any money; he just wanted to make sure we got back to Chaguaramas safely. He gave us loads of great tips on where to go, what to try, and fun things to do while we’re here. Learning later how unreliable the bus schedules are made his gesture even more thoughtful.
We had a fender bender when a car backed into us in a hardware store parking lot. The other driver gave us his name and phone number, but we weren’t sure what to do next. We flagged down a police officer working a roadblock, and he kindly gave us an escort to the police station. There, a very helpful, friendly officer took our report and called the other driver, who then showed up and took responsibility for the incident.
That's some of the Trini kindness we have been experiencing. People looking out for us and helping us along the way.
Bustling Country
Aside from driving on the "wrong" side of the road, cruising around Trinidad gave us serious déjà vu vibes—as if we’d somehow teleported back to the States! The roads are smooth and modern, with KFCs popping up on every corner. The malls here are flourishing likes its 1985 all over again! There are water parks, amusement parks, strip plazas, Big Box stores, and high rise condos. Honestly, Trinidad feels more like America than Puerto Rico did!
Trinidad and Tobago has one of the most industrialized economies in the Caribbean, largely due to its oil and natural gas reserves. The island also has a strong manufacturing sector, and its economy is further supported by agriculture, tourism, and services.
Trinidad and Tobago is a melting pot of cultures. 37% of the population today is of Indian descent, known as Indo-Caribbean. The relationship between India and Trinidad and Tobago began in 1845 when the first indentured laborers arrived from India to work on sugar plantations.
Maracas Beach
With the rental car, we found a beach worthy of jumping in! Maracas Beach, one of Trinidad's most iconic and picturesque spots, is nestled on the island's northern coast, just an hour's drive from Port of Spain. Renowned for its breathtaking scenery, vibrant atmosphere, and mouthwatering food, it’s a favorite for us and everyone else who lives here!
Maracas was refreshingly clean, with no garbage in sight. The beach was buzzing with Trini families enjoying the sun and surf, making it a lively and welcoming place to be. Too bad anchoring in this bay is not possible. The swell and shallow water make it much too dangerous.
Bake and Shark
We were told by many Trinis that we had to try Bake and Shark at Maracas Beach. You can't help but order it since it is the featured item at every restaurant on the beach.
What is Bake and Shark? It is a crispy, golden-fried shark fillet tucked into fluffy, warm fried bread (donut-esque). It's like the ultimate beachside sandwich that makes you question if you’ve been eating boring food your whole life.
They serve it to you plain. It's up to you to visit the toppings bar. There, you can pile on all the toppings you want—slaw, hot sauce, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, pickles, ketchup, mustard, and of course a splash of local seasoning for that extra zing. The server girl gave us big eyes as we sloshed the spicy seasoning on. We thought maybe we over did it but it wasn't that hot.
It was very, very tasty but I certainly wouldn't want to know how many calories and fat are in a fried fish sandwich encased in fried dough!
The Bamboo Cathedral
Not far from our anchor spot in Chaguaramas is an incredibly cool place called the Bamboo Cathedral. It’s an open-air marvel crafted entirely from towering bamboo stalks that arch and weave together. The light filters through the bamboo casting lights and shadows on the ground. As we walked through we heard the whisper of bamboo and the gentle rustle of leaves creating a symphony of peacefulness.
But we weren't alone on our walk. There were eyes in the trees watching us. Little Capuchin Monkeys were following us.
The Capuchin Monkeys were very inquisitive, swinging from the branches right above our heads, chattering away with whistles and chirps.
Just as we were enjoying their playful antics, a deep, booming call echoed through the trees—it was unmistakably a howler monkey!
With our curiosity piqued, we veered off the main trail to track down the source of that wild sound. And let me tell you, we hit the jackpot!
Howler Monkeys
It didn’t take long for us to spot a Red Howler Monkey, and once we saw one, the others were easy to find—they stick close together in their tribe. We kept a respectful distance and quietly observed as they moved through the trees, munching on leaves, hanging by their tails, and leaping from branch to branch.
One, in particular, caught our eye, sitting still and just staring at us. They were surprisingly quiet, with only the occasional low grunt breaking the silence. We stayed there for probably thirty minutes just watching them.
Apparently, half an hour was more time than they were comfortable with us being there. We noticed one monkey starting to swing through the branches, gradually making his way closer. At first, we were excited, thinking he was just being curious. But he kept coming—closer and closer—until he was perched on a branch barely five feet away from us, only about ten feet up in the air. Dave thought it was great but Mr. Howler was making me nervous.
We heard a rustling in the trees and turned around to see that he was not alone. More and more howlers were encircling us at a close range. My heart was beating faster.
And then they started howling...loudly!!! That was enough for me. I started walking as quickly as I could to get out of their circle. Ignoring my admonishments, Dave stayed to film them.
You can listen to them here!
I was convinced that any second, Alpha male monkey would signal his buddies and all would leap onto Dave's head and I'd witness a blur of red fur as they swarmed him. I was planning which bamboo stick I was going to use to beat them off.
Fortunately, Dave came to his senses, put the phone away, and joined me further down the trail. The monkeys immediately calmed down as they watched us depart the jungle and head back to the main path.
Our monkey encounter was definitely the highlight of our walk through the Bamboo Cathedral, but it wasn’t the only surprise in store. As we continued along the trail, it began to slope upward, leading us into new terrain.
Follow the Numbers
The uphill path had a starting line and was numbered every meter.
I figured it would end at 10 so even though it was late afternoon and I didn't want to be caught out at night in the jungle in Trinidad, we kept going up. But 10 came and went. We kept climbing higher. After 13, there was a lookout to enjoy the view. I assumed the view was the payoff but I was wrong.
The steep hill continued as did the numbers on the path. I wanted to turn around at 23 because I didn't think it was worth the hour climb. But we trudged uphill more.
We were even taunted along the way. Now we had to finish.
Finally....
And what we found around the corner was worth the climb!
We had found an abandoned Ballistic Missile Early Warning System (BMEWS) built by the United States in the 1950s during the Cold War. The station was used to detect Soviet missiles launched from anywhere in the world. The adandoned base has obviously fallen into disrepair since being decommissioned, but was really cool to visit.
The Military History of Chaguaramas
All of Chaguaramas used to be a United Stated Navy Base. The British traded the use of this area (along with other Caribbean locations) to the United States for 50 older destroyers.
The United States arrived in Trinidad on the 10th October, 1940 on the USS St. Louis.
Groundwork of the site for the naval base and air station commenced on March 1st, 1941. The right to evict people off the peninsula was given to the Americans. Native homes were demolished, beach clubs and holiday homes were closed down. In 1943 and 1944 Chaguaramas base was a full military area with the North/West peninsula strictly prohibited to the public.
Troops departed in 1967, the base closed in 1977, and the lease of the land was given up by the US in 1988.
Today, the former base headquarters serve as a hotel and convention center, and you can easily spot the old military buildings scattered around the area.
Pitch Lake
A couple of hours' drive south of Chaguaramas brought us to the incredible Pitch Lake.
Pitch Lake in Trinidad is the largest natural asphalt deposit in the world, located in the village of La Brea (the La Brea Tar Pits in California are named after this village in Trinidad).
Spanning about 100 acres and reaching depths of up to 250 feet, it’s a surreal landscape that looks like something from another planet. The surface is a mix of solid and semi-solid asphalt, with areas that appear cracked and rough, almost like dried mud, while other spots are softer and sticky underfoot. Still other parts are underwater.
We had an incredibly informative guide, Neal Langley, take us on our own private tour. Neal grew up in the area and has been a guide for over 40 years!
I really liked his partner as well. She showed up during COVID times. Neal took pity on her and began feeding her every day and now he has an assistant.. She accompanies him on every one of his tours.
The first European to see Pitch Lake was Sir Walter Raleigh, the English explorer, in 1595. During his expedition to Trinidad, Raleigh encountered natives who paved the floors of their homes and the paths throughout their villages. Raleigh asked to be taken to the source. He famously used the pitch to repair his ships, which led to its reputation as a valuable resource, especially for sailors.
I'm an avid reader of books about Captain Cook and I know he always had plenty of barrels of hardened pitch on board for repairs.
What Lies Beneath
Pitch Lake is a treasure trove of unusual and well-preserved finds, thanks to the lake's unique composition and slow-moving asphalt.
Some of the things discovered in Pitch Lake include:
Ancient Artifacts: Pre-Columbian artifacts, such as pottery and tools, have been found, indicating that the area was once inhabited by indigenous peoples.
Fossils: The lake has preserved fossils of prehistoric animals, including the remains of a giant sloth, making it a site of significant paleontological interest.
Human Remains: Skeletal remains, possibly of ancient inhabitants, have been discovered, some of which are believed to be thousands of years old.
Botanical Specimens: Plants and seeds trapped in the asphalt have been preserved in remarkable detail, providing insights into the region’s ancient flora.
The English took these items back to England, of course.
More recent items, lost tools, coins, and even a bicycle, have been found, showing that the lake continues to trap and preserve objects over time.
The lake is constantly replenishing itself, with fresh asphalt bubbling up from beneath the surface, giving it an ever-changing appearance.
Bathing in Pitch Lake
Bathing in Pitch Lake has been traditionally believed to have certain health benefits, though these are more rooted in local lore than in scientific evidence. Here are some of the claimed benefits:
Skin Conditions: The minerals and sulfur content in the lake’s waters are believed to help with skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne. Some people claim that the water soothes and improves the appearance of the skin.
Muscle and Joint Pain Relief: The warm, mineral-rich water is thought to ease muscle soreness and joint pain, similar to the effects of soaking in hot springs or mud baths.
Detoxification: Some locals believe that soaking in the lake helps draw out toxins from the body, improving overall health and well-being.
Improved Circulation: The warm temperature of the water combined with its mineral content is said to enhance blood circulation, which can promote healing and reduce inflammation.
We saw several groups of bathers on the day we visited. We did not partake in full immersion but we did wade through some sections that came up to our thighs.
Pitch Lake is a natural wonder and a significant historical site, as its asphalt has been mined for centuries and continues to be today. It is used for everything from paving roads to waterproofing ancient artifacts.
It is well worth a visit.
Power Boats Marina
Trinidad is a mecca for yachties hauling out their vessels for repairs and maintenance. The island offers several well-equipped boatyards and marinas in Chaguaramas. We dinghy into two of the largest marinas, Peakes and Power Boats.
Power Boats is our favorite one.
Power Boats lets us use all their facilities for free while we’re anchored—talk about a win! We’re taking full advantage of their on-site laundry and showers, plus their handy grocery store. We, of course, don’t miss out on their bar and restaurant, Sails, where we've met up with other cruisers. For some amazing Rotis, there's the Roti Hut—deliciousness guaranteed!
Cruisers
There are plenty of opportunities to connect with other cruisers at Power Boats.
Jesse James
Jesse James's influence on the Trinidad and Tobago cruising community is profound. His "Members Only" Maxi-Taxi and Tour Services have become an essential resource for cruisers, offering convenient access to island exploration, local markets, airport transfers, and more.
Jesse's contributions go far beyond transportation. As a passionate advocate for cruisers in Trinidad, he has played a key role in driving community improvements that directly benefit the cruising community. Serving as the port captain for both the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) and the Ocean Cruising Club (OCC), Jesse is the trusted contact for cruisers seeking assistance.
Operation Cruiser's Aid
Fellow cruisers Cori and Roy McCormick, along with Jesse James, set up Operation Cruiser's Aid which raised money, organized supplies, and arranged for private yachts to deliver the goods to victims of Hurricane Berryl in the Grenadines. We met the amazing Jesse, Cori, and Roy when we were recruited to help load boats on the dock at Power Boats.
Cheap, Cheap, Cheap!
One of the coolest things about Trinidad? It’s super budget-friendly! With one Trini Dollar being just 15 cents in the US, our money stretches a long way here.
Hop on a bus for just $2 TT (a mere 30 cents) and you're off!
Craving something local? You can grab a mouthwatering Doubles for only $6 TT—that’s just 88 cents!
Doubles are like little pockets of joy made from turmeric- and cumin-spiced bara (fried bread). They’re crispy yet soft, packed with spiced chickpeas, and loaded with a mix of sour, spicy, sweet, and crunchy toppings. Warning: they’re incredibly messy to eat, but totally worth it!
We've been exploring local restaurants, enjoying dinner and drinks, and our bill has never been more than $130 TT, or less than $20 bucks.
But, we did make the rookie mistake of hitting up the touristy Tommy's Brewery, where the prices were more in line with what you’d pay back home. That bill, with service fees and tip included, came to over $500 TT ($74)!! You can get an IPA there, though.
All in all, Trinidad is a paradise for your wallet, and we’re loving how far our American dollars are taking us here!!
The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
It's no secret that the good in Trinidad totally crushes the bad and the ugly. Sure, I’m itching to dive into some cleaner waters off the boat again, but we’ve lingered here for a reason—there's just too much good stuff to leave.
However, we are cruisers and we keep moving. Our next stop will be to the 2nd half of Trinidad's name- Tobago.
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